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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.